Pool & Spa Water Testing!

“We’re Here For You!”

We use only the latest technology when it comes to testing your water, ensuring you the most accurate results possible! And we not only train our staff in-house on water chemistry, our staff also frequently take part in outside water chemistry training courses and seminars from our chemical manufacturers!

We are confident that the advice we give is the right advice for all your swimming pool and hot tub chemical needs!

First things first…

We Stop Testing Pool & Spa Water 30

Minutes Before We Close!

Second… Dou you have a pool or spa?

Follow these instructions for Swimming Pools

1) It is recommended that no chemicals be added to the water for at least 3 hours before the water test is taken from your swimming pool. If you have added chemicals to the water on the day of the test, please plan to let us know which chemicals you added, and the amounts. Chemicals such as algaecide, clarifier, and metal removers are not chemicals that are testable, so it is good for us to know if you have added any of these chemicals recently.

2) Two Good Tips For You:

-We recommend you make a list of any chemicals you have at home, and the approximate amounts of each, before you bring the water test to us.

-Also, it is very important that we can figure out how many gallons of water your pool holds. If you don’t know your gallons, please know the length, width, and depth of your pool before bringing in a test.

3) Do not bring a water test in unless your filter has been running for at least 24 hours after first opening your pool and at least 3 – 4 hours during the regular season. In order for us to get accurate test readings, your water needs to be circulated (moved around.) Water at the bottom of your pool can test different from the water at the surface. The filter is what makes the water move around, but it is also very important to make sure your return jets are faced down and faced away from the skimmer. This ensures that the water at the bottom is pushed up to the surface, where your skimmer can then pull it in to the filter and keep the “bottom to surface” cycle going. Think of how a tornado works; this is the same action that circulates your swimming pool water best.

4) If your pool is filled with thick algae and leaves, and you are not able to run you filter for the 24 hours, the best thing to do isbrush your pool wall and floor and heavily shock your pool with your proper sanitizer, add the proper dose of algaecide, and run your filter for as long as you can. In other words, clear the pool the best you can before you bring us the water test.

5) Use a non-metallic bottle when taking the water from the pool that holds at least 8 oz. of water.

6) Rinse out the bottle several times with the water to be tested. This helps to ensure there is no contamination from anything that was previously in the bottle. (We recommend you use the same bottle for future tests. This prevents further contamination.)

7) When taking the water from the pool, reach down and secure water from 18 inches below the surface and away from the return jets.

8) It is very important for you to get the sample to our store as soon as you can after you take the water from your pool. We recommend to bring it in within an hour. The longer the water sits in the bottle, the less accurate the test results will be. Drastic temperature changes in the test water can make the results differ as well, so we recommend you do not put your sample in, say, the cup holder of your car that is closest to an air conditioning or heating vent or on the back seat where the sample can be exposed to the sun.

Follow these instructions for Hot Tubs & Spas

1) It is recommended that no chemicals be added to the water for at least 3 hours before the water test is taken from your hot tub. If you have added chemicals to the water on the day of the test, please plan to let us know which chemicals you added, and the amounts. Chemicals such as clarifier and metal removers are not chemicals that are testable, so it is good for us to know if you have added any of these chemicals recently.

2) Two Good Tips For You:

-We recommend you make a list of any chemicals you have at home, and the approximate amounts of each, before you bring the water test to us.

-Also, it is very important that we can figure out how many gallons of water your hot tub holds. If you don’t know your gallons, please know the length, width, and depth of your spa before bringing in a test.

3) Do not bring a water test in to us until your water has reached any temperature higher than 80 degrees. In order for us to get accurate test readings, your hot tub water needs to be above 80 degrees. Once water reaches 80 degrees, its test results can differ from the same water that is tested below 80 degrees. The only exception to this rule is: if you plan to regularly use your hot tub at a temperature below 80 degrees, which is very rare, even in the summer. You should then bring the sample in to us when the water reaches the temperature you plan to keep the hot tub at.

4) Use a non-metallic bottle when taking the water from the hot tub that holds at least 8 oz. of water.

5) Rinse out the bottle several times with the water to be tested. This helps to ensure there is no contamination from anything that was previously in the bottle. (We recommend you use the same bottle for future tests. This prevents further contamination.)

6) When taking the water from the hot tub, reach down and secure water from 12 -18 inches below the surface while the jets are running.

7) It is very important for you to get the sample to our store as soon as you can after you take the water from your hot tub. We recommend to bring it in within an hour. The longer the water sits in the bottle, the less accurate the test results will be. Drastic temperature changes in the test water can make the results differ as well, so we recommend you do not put your sample in, say, the cup holder of your car that is closest to an air conditioning or heating vent or on the back seat where the sample can be exposed to the sun.